Weinwandertag Esslingen (Wine Walk)

"Weinwanderweg" – in English, wein = wine, weg = path, so ...

One of the first you-can't-miss-this recommendations we got upon moving to Germany was: "You've gotta go to the Esslingen wine festival. It's only once a year, but they have a path where you wander around and get samples of wine. And the best part is the little wine glass you buy that hangs around your neck!"

Was that a little wine glass – or a big necklace charm?

Either way, I was in.

The latest in oenophile fashion.

The Weinwandertag Esslingen finally came into view this past weekend, for one day only: Sunday, May 20. We came. We wandered. We sipped. We sweated.

 Some notes for next year:

Here come the crowds of wine lovers.

First, Esslingen is easy to get to by the glorious Stuttgart public transit system. We took the S1 to the Esslingen stop. The path isn't far; just follow the crowds. If you have more than two people traveling together – and you don't already have a monthly/yearly/etc. pass – definitely get the group all-day pass for up to 5 or so people. It's usually ever so slightly more than the price of 4 one-way trips.

When you get off at the S-bahn Esslingen stop, just follow the crowds. Specifically: the Americans.

Apparently, every American within 20 miles has received the same gushing recommendation we did. We heard English all over the place. We ran into co-workers. We almost felt like we were back in Charlottesville, on a wine tour in Virginia. It didn't feel like a Real Authentic Foreign (i.e. Unusual) Experience. (Which is not good or bad; simply a surprise.)

As the weather heated up, I discovered my handy-dandy wine glass is also well-designed to hold old-fashioned water. (Unfortunately for me and my American tastes, all the water sold was bubbly.)

Check the weather. The same beating sun that grape vines bask in happily will also cook you. I turned a nice shade of Rosé. Maybe Merlot. Next time: sunscreen, hats, bottled water and a cooler in the car. (Or, as German weather is fickle, perhaps scarves and hand warmers will be in order.)

A 2€ pastry covered with cheese and baked with tomato. Imagine a very rich mini pizza.

We should have considered pre-eating or toting supplies. We arrived at noon, ready for wine tasting and noshing, but the crowds were incredible. We were novices. We were overwhelmed quickly. And the food, while tasty enough, was mostly bread and pastries until you get to the finish line. The smart Germans made their own picnics along the way – in the shady bends of the path, where trees arched over sweaty pockets of people.

This way to the WC (water closet, aka – the restrooms).

And yes, there are occasional port-a-potties and even a few trailer bathrooms along the path. The lines were long, but not insane.

Pay no attention to this deceptive photo. All the bathrooms had long lines, except the very, very last one. The one pictured.

The walk must have been several kilometers, a nice Sunday bit of exercise. And the vineyards and the view are intoxicating, even without the delicious sipping.

As for the wine, you could choose from several varieties, including Riesling, Spätburgunder (pinot noir), and Rosé. Toward the end, a French winery had their own stand, for 4€ a pour (the Esslingen wine was 2€ for a pour).

A long stretch of vineyard path, with no shade in sight.

Each time you made it to a wine station, you could have your "passport" – a folded piece of paper you were given at the beginning – stamped. At the end, if you collected all the stamps (6 or 7, I think), you would receive a free sample. (I didn't get anywhere close!)

The festive music at the end of the path.

After we rounded the last bend and started the long decline back to town, we began hearing music. By this point, I was exhausted and over-heating, my cheeks baking. A enormous white circular tent, upheld by a crane, was waiting, with a big brass band, and rows upon rows of benches and tables.

Tired and hot, I was thrilled to see – not the wine, not the salads, not the heaping Maultaschen (German ravioli, sort of), not the brats. But, oh yes:

Ice cream.

Just what every good wine fest ought to have.

Stuttgarter Frühlingsfest

If you've ever wished for a holiday twice in a year — two Christmases, perhaps? two birthdays? — the Germans are two steps ahead of you.

Oktoberfest (aka Cannstatter Volksfest in Stuttgart) is the famous German fest in the fall. In spring, it comes around again as Frühlingsfest!

Frühlingsfest translates to spring fest. In Stuttgart, home of the biggest Oktoberfest in the world after Munich, the same grounds are used for both Oktoberfest and Frühlingsfest.

I expected huge tents, giant-sized beer mugs, and lots of cheery people in dirndls and lederhosen. I did not expect a carnival straight out of Coney Island.

The fairgrounds in Bad Cannstatt in Stuttgart fill up in the spring, for Frühlingfest, and in the fall, for Volksfest.

 

You won't go hungry at a fest — wurst, fries, potato cakes, cotton candy, chocolate-covered fruit on a stick, even cappuccinos, are all for sale. This food stand sells toasted, sweetened nuts. (Mandeln = almonds, for example)

This year, Frühlingsfest ran from April 21 to May 13. The day draws families and teens. Anyone can enter these huge tents and buy food off the menu. At night, the tables inside the tent are reserved for those who have bought tickets far ahead of time. At 1700 (5 p.m.) or so, it's time to give up your seat for a ticket-holder, who will dance on the benches until the wee hours.

Inside one of the many huge tents. A live band plays on the stage, against a big screen displaying fest merry-making.

 Sometimes, a ticket inside includes a liter (or two or three) of beer and a half a chicken. The chicken are cooked on a spit, round and round.

Fries are fries, but Germans don't eat them with their fingers. The popsicle sticks are forked at the end for spearing the fries. The two condiment options: ketchup and mayo.

Finally — the beer. Stuttgarter Hofbrau brews a special Frühlingsfest beer, light and delicious. You'd think a liter of beer would be a lot to consume. No way, you'd think; I won't be able to finish that! But it's so cool, with a mellow sweetness, that it's lip-smackingly easy to drink.

It's all so good, and the fest is so much fun, you might almost wonder if twice a year still isn't quite enough ...